Retail comes with a Heatsink, Fan, manual, warranty, etc. OEM is just the chip itself. I typically buy OEM because I have no need for anything else (except maybe warranty, but oh well), and it costs less, but you may want to go with retail depending on what you want.
What SHOULD happen, and what happened to me, is that after you install them and reboot, the control panel should fail to start, and then after that Windows should install the drivers itself. As I said above, if the drivers listed have that date and version number then the drivers did install...
Same thing happened to me... Assuming those are the 4.1's, as long as the driver listed in Device Manager has date 12/12/2003 and version 6.14.10.6414 they are installed.
If you do everything right, nothing should go wrong (assuming the power doesn't go out while you're doing it :)). Hell, My A7V333 allows me to flash right in Windows (some say it's not safe, but it seems fine to me). Try and get the newest BIOS listed, though.
You're motherboard definetly...
Few things:
-My brother had the same problem with the original, and it turned out to be the cable, right at the base of the mouse it was loose.
-PS/2 offers higher report rates, =higher accuracy.
-I highly recommend the Logitech MX 500, or 700 is you truly want/need cordless.
While they're 4.1, I have to recommend the Logitech Z-560's. They are easily the best value out there. 400 watts of power and sound clarity rivaling Klipsch's for ~$130. I bought them a month or two ago and they don't dissappoint (and the bass is, as you requested, POWERFUL :naughty: )
There is no risk, BUT it doesn't do a whole lot, at least according to virtually every review I've seen. It's more of a marketing thing/exhibition of ATI's future than anything else, IMO.
Another vote for Ad-Aware. It has always worked the best for me, and on the versions people have installed on various school computers, it seems like Spybot requires a purchase to actually REMOVE the adware after it has found it.
still waiting for someone to tell me how the environment is tangibly affected by each driver of an SUV...Same type of thing. Both are wrong, but people have this attitude that they don't matter, it's the whole...
It goes against my goddamn morals. This is a game that Valve has been working on for some time and I refuse to play it without giving them their dues whether or not they have handled the whole release situation in a good way. Besides that, I wouldn't want to ruin the game for myself.
Not PSU, UPS...Basically battery backup and protection from brown-outs. I would like info here too, as with the money I've put into these things it really wouldn't hurt...
Core speed and memory speed are two different things, just to clarify...Memory speed is memory speed and core speed is basically like processor speed.
But, that sounds about right assuming you mean memory speed, as it is DDR memory (DOUBLE data rate). Double your memory speed and you have...
250 watts is low and that could well be your problem. Also, try disabling fast writes if you haven't done so already. I seriously doubt that it's the card...Just me, though.
You will lose a tiny bit of performance, and the only reason I suggested it is because of the word "write," and that I have heard about problems with them enabled. Another problem could be your power supply (no the error messages, but could be the problem with the lockups), but I wouldn't look...
I would be willing to guarantee that it does.
Try enabling/disabling fast writes in the BIOS (not sure how to get into it on Dell computers), and try what others have said...Completely remove all display drivers and reinstall ATI drivers (Cat3.8's are due out tomorrow), and if none of that...