Fu*king shit

[Gray Fox]

The parts for my new PC came today. I explicitly paid 15,- for CPU+cooling assembly so I did not have to deal with thermal grease and putting on the cpu cooler.

Now look at the pic in this link and tell me what is wrong:
http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?93a9d6d1bb.jpg




Now that you have seen it, please tell me what to do about it. How do I safely remove the cooler, how do I clean it, which products do I use, brand names. Do I have to use a hairdryer to warm it up before removing the cooler. Any help is welcome.

 

[TechnoHippyChic]

Since it hasn't been run yet it shouldn't be baked on there. Just remove the stock cooler, add some Arctic Silver, and smooth it out to a thin layer with a piece of plastic or something, then install your better cooler.

 

[Gray Fox]

They have run it unfortunately , to test it out if it works.
Sorry for not making that clear.

 

[TechnoHippyChic]

Still should be ok, give it a gentle twist when unlatched and it should give.

 

[Warbie]

Yeh, easily done. I usually clean off the compound with lighter fuel on a lens cleaner and smear something decent on (artic silver) using a plastic bag - stick your finger in and smear it around.

 

[Gray Fox]

Google has told me I can use
Acetone
99% pure isopropyl alcohol
White spirit

With a lint free cloth
or Q-tip
But doesn't a q-tip leave a shitload of small strands, I mean it's made of them?

Also do I let it dry in the open air, or just wipe it clean and then immediately apply thermal grease, or use a hairdryer on cold setting after wiping of the solvent.
Because if I leave it in the open air, dust particles will accumulate.


Also do I remove the CPU from the motherboard before cleaning it or not.



Also how do I apply thermalgrease.
Some say dot in the middle, I found the best guide on arcticsilver site.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appinstruct/as5/ins_as5_intel_quad_wcap.pdf

 

[Warbie]

Don't worry too much.

Wipe off the compound with whatever appropriate cloth you can find. Don't use too much fluid, it isn't needed, and watch it dissipate (right word?). It dries quickly. I then put a tiny blob of compound in the center of the core and, as mentioned above, smear it evenly over the surface with my hand/finger in a plastic bag. It really is a piece of piss and nothing to get concerned about.

 

[3ssence]

Use the Acetone to remove the thermal material, then clean the heatspreader with the isopropyl alcohol to make sure it is completely clear of acetone (which would otherwise start to dissolve any new thermal material you put on there).

 

[Gray Fox]

Can I also use white spirit, isopropyl is kind of very hard to come buy.

 

[3ssence]

You want one of these kits:

http://www.xpcgear.com/articlean60m.html

It basically has all of those solutions in small bottles, quite handy, and plenty enough to use for future applications etc. etc.

 

[The Brick]

Just take off the cooler, find a piece of cloth, use any cleaning fluid that vaporizes quickly (alcohol would do just fine too). Clean off the area where the cooler would hit the cpu. Put a blob of cooling paste on the middle, put the cooler on (don't wiggle) and attach it. It's really not that big of a deal what fluid or type of cloth you use, as long as the all the cooling paste comes off.


Also, I lol'ed.

 

[Gray Fox]

Ok I put the cooling on the CPU. Bad thing is I had to twist it and move it a lot to get the H-plate over the screwholes, so I don't know if I created any major airbubbles. And I put on the thermalgrease the was described on Arctic website, a stripe covering both chips.

Now I hooked up everything, I turn on my pc, and what I see is this.
http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?5c96bd4f55.jpg
Now that isn't bad, since it's what I;m supposed to see, the bad thing about it is, that I can't do anything anymore. I can keep pressing Tab,Del,F9,F12.End all I want, my pc stays in that screen.

But it gets weirder, I found out that when I boot my pc or restart it and I rapidly press the Tab button I get in to the post screen, which is basically that same screen only black ,and it checks your CPU and RAM.
Here is what it looks like:
http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?dd150331c2.jpg
as you can see it is reporting that my ram is ok and my cpu is at 2.4 ghz
( 266x9 )

Now being the genius that I am, I thought, well what if rapidly pres Del when I boot my system, maybe then I will get in to the bios menu.
Nope, doesn't work, same with the rest. It only works with the Tab button.

What I also tried is rapidly pressing Tab, then when I see the screen go black, meaning it is going from the first screen to the post screen, rapidly pressing delete. Nope doesn't work. I just get a ****ed up version of the post screen.
http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?1b89b90a63.jpg

I also tried it with three different keyboards. One only USB, one ps/2, but with flock( although IIRC that obly work in Windows so it should not **** up the f keys at atartup, and I tried it with an old basic keyboard. All of them work 100%. I also tried putting the keyboard in the maus PS/2 port. Thinking, well maybe the back panel is wrongly labeld, or the main board has some twisted circuits. The first time I had my keybaord, maus, monitor, ethernet connected. Later I tried it with I only had my keyboard and monitor.
I did not want anything to interfere.


In any case tomorrow I am going to try to put in my current IDE HDD with windoes XP in to see if the system wil work with that. Can that work or wil windows detect different hardware and squirt all over itself.

I wil also try my IDE DVD writer, maybe that wil work without an OS and I can install vista or the DS3P drivers.

I will also for the 10th time recheck every connection.

My specs are Q6600, 2GB DDR2 corsair memory,7900GS PCI-E, 500GB samsung Sata Disc, Nec Sata DVD writer

Any help is appreciated.

edit: also this motherboard has a shitload of Sata 2 connections, but some of then are called GSata 2, which stands for gigabyte Sata. I connected my dvd writer and HDD to the normal Sata 2 connectors that are connected to the Southbridge. But even if I had not connected it at all or wrongly this problem should not happened. When in the bios only the motherboard memory and chip matter right, the HDD and DVD are irrelevant in that screen.

 

[TechnoHippyChic]

Try just one Tab to get to get to the post screen, then let it sit a while and see if it gives you any messages. You may be filling up the keyboard buffer, confusing it.

 

[Gray Fox]

Try just one Tab to get to get to the post screen, then let it sit a while and see if it gives you any messages. You may be filling up the keyboard buffer, confusing it.

Tried that I think, but I'm going to do it again tomorrow to make sure.
Thnx though.

 

[TechnoHippyChic]

Also, the motherboard manual isn't really clear on this, but I believe you'll need the hard drive in the SATAII0 port, check that...

 

[Fliko]

Make sure everything is connected on your computer right, and maybe you need to change the jumper settings on a DVD/CD Drive, or Hard Drive (Just to experiment. I had a problem where the jumper was set wrong and my computer would freeze at the loading screen, it was really weird, but putting the jumper in the right place fixed it)

 

[Gray Fox]

Also, the motherboard manual isn't really clear on this, but I believe you'll need the hard drive in the SATAII0 port, check that...

I had already done, checked in my manual to see which was sataaII0,
I also tried putting it on GsataII, the sataII connection of gigabyte that is not connected to the southbridge. Furthermore I tried only disconnecting my DVD drive, then disconnecting both hard drive and DVD drive, and later disconnecting HDD, DVD, and all front pane connections, like the audio, USB, firewire. Everything except the ones for the power switch, reset button, and HDD led.

I could use a screwdriver to clear the cmos values?

Also what about my plan to connect my current HDD, the one that belongs to this computer, which is an IDE, 120GB, maxtor, with windows XP on it. Could that work, would windows **** up, and what if I tried to put it back in to this PC again.

Oh and my mainboard is revision 1.

 

[Gray Fox]

Hey guys sorry to bump this thread.
But I solved my problem by pulling out the second piece of RAM.

The reason I did not do this earlier is because the store says that when they assemble the CPU+Cooling+Ram they test it if it works.

In any case now I have another problem.
I can't seem to get my motherboard to detect my HDD and DVD player. but I do not know if I went and did it in the right way.

I got in CMOS standard manu.
There I saw things like:
IDE Channel 0 Master [none]
IDE Channel 0 slave [none]

And so on, except on channel 2 and 3 it only has master
Channel 4 and 5 have slaves.

I had my HDD hooked up to SATAII0, and my DVD writer to SATAII1
I tried autodetect on all the IDE channels.

I also tried removing the DVD and only leaving the HDD, that did not work, I also tried putting the HDD in to SATAII2,that did not work either.

I did not try to put it in to GSATAII, I have two of those.

So anyone know what is going on.

Here is a picture of the DS3P, the purple SATA connectors are the GSATA, the orange/yellow are the normal, and the highest one, the most right in the picture is O then one below/to the left in the pic is 1.
http://www.jaha.be/images/ga-p35-ds3p.jpg

 

[Nabobalis]

Well surly if you are putting in SATA devices then nothing will show up under IDE, I had a similar problem with my ASUS not detecting the SATA drive then detecting it but ****ed up and then detected it fine. It seems that switching ports did the trick.

Also check to see if the cables are securely connected, other than that I'm at a loss, unless something is wrong with your motherboard, but I would wait for ASUS to see if he can come with something.

 

[Gray Fox]

Ok solved the problem.
I had accidently connected the sata powercables to the PCI-E ports on the PSU. The reason is because the PSU is designed to be put in the top, to put it in the bottom like in the antec nine hundred you have to put it upside down.

In any case I put them correctly so the HDD and DVD got power, and to my dismay found out I had one DOA RAM stick and a DOA HDD.

The reason I know one stick is DOA is because the PC starts fine with the good one in the first RAM slot. To check the other one, I replaced the one that worked with the other to see if it was faulty or just my mobo not accepting two sticks or something. But when I tried to start the PC with that one RAM stick in, I got the same problem I described in the OP.

When I put the other RAM stick back in and remove the faulty one, everything works fine. The problem is I bought them in pairs and now I have to send both back I think.

The reason I know my HDD is DOA is because when I put the SATA power cables correctly mu DVD was detected, but my HDD not. So I removed the DVD SATA cable from the motherboard end,and but in the HDD cable on that place, to check if it wasn't just a faulty mobo jumper, I put the DVD cable where I had put the HDD cable in at first. Again only my DVD was detected. So I pulled the whole dvd sata cable from both ends and replaced the HDD sata cable completely on both ends with the sata cable of the DVD, and put the HDD sata cable on the DVD. But again only the DVD was detected. Then I removed the SATA power cable from the DVD and put it in the HDD, and put the SATA power cable that went to the HDD in the DVD player, and again only the DVD player got detected.
_________________

 

[gweedodogg69]

Since it hasn't been run yet it shouldn't be baked on there. Just remove the stock cooler, add some Arctic Silver, and smooth it out to a thin layer with a piece of plastic or something, then install your better cooler.

All you need to do is but a small dab of the Arctic Silver in the center of the CPU, about the size of a pea or a lil smaller and put the heatsink on. The heatsink is smooth and will apply it evenly and thin overtop of the CPU. That's worked best for me.

 

[Gray Fox]

I put a stripe like they say on the arctic silver 5 site, even though I used the Tuniq Thermal grease that came with it.

In any case my Bios is indicating temp of 34c idle( that like 4000 million Fahrenheit or something for you yanks), that seems to be dammed good temperature for a quad. But I hear core temp is the most accurate app, so it may differ.

Anyone here know how much of a difference is between core temp readout and award bios readout. And does core temp generally give lower temp read out or higher.

 

[TechnoHippyChic]

That is a nice idle temp. The bios temp is probably close, depends on the placement of the thermistor. I wouldn't sweat it!