How to ruin your weekend; a 2 step process...

xcellerate

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1.) buy an audi with a 5cyl motor
2.) try and change the timing belt

I got everything taken apart, and the last thing I had to do was pull the crank pulley off so I could put the timing belt on but guess what...the bolt won't come off.

It's a pulley, so for the people out there going, "just get a bigger breaker bar!" it's not that simple; because the pulley just spins. Yes there's a special audi tool that holds the pulley still while you get a breaker bar and break the bolt loose, but I figured I'd just use an impact gun like the other times I've had to remove crank bolts.

So I use my friends off brand impact gun at 90psi and it doesn't work, so I get another friends craftsman impact gun and up the psi to 120 and it still doesn't work. So I get another friend's ingersoll rand and pump it up to 170psi and it still won't come off, so finally one of my friends works at a vw shop and I have him swipe me his snapon impact gun and I try that at 220psi and the bolt STILL won't come off. Infact I nearly stripped the impact socket off the impact gun trying to get the bolt off. All the guns are rated for a psi of 90, and the snapon at 90psi is supposed to make 407ft/lbs of torque.

I can not believe how ridiculously tight this bolt is on here. I guess I'm going to have to bit the bullet, buy the special audi tool, and make a 15ft breaker bar and jump on it from my roof.

I'm just getting really frustrated...and if I somehow managed to strip this case harded, drop forged, heat treated, cryo treated, tungsten carbide bolt that was installed by the will of God, then I might as well just go walk in front of traffic.

It's crazy how one average size bolt can ruin your weekend...and then some.
 
1.) buy an audi with a 5cyl motor
2.) try and change the timing belt

You think thats bad! Try changing a waterpump on a Cavalier Z24 (LD9 Engine).


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Detach the oxygen sensor connector.
3. Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for more complete coolant drain.
4. Remove upper exhaust manifold heat shield.
5. Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
6. Remove the lower exhaust manifold heat shield.
7. Break loose the manifold to exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts using a 13mm box wrench.
8. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
9. Unfasten the two radiator outlet pipe-to-water pump cover bolts.
10. Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:

- Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
- Remove the other bolt.
- Remove the first bolt.
- Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.

11. Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the exhaust manifold brace. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump. Leave the radiator outlet pipe hang.
12. Carefully lower the vehicle.
13. Unfasten the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head retaining nuts, then remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
14. For the 2.4L engine, remove the front timing chain cover and the chain tensioner. For details, please refer to the procedure located later in this section.
15. Unfasten the water pump-to-cylinder block bolts. Remove the water pump-to-timing chain housing nuts. Remove the water pump and cover mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover as an assembly, then separate the two pieces.

Now to install:

16. Thoroughly clean and dry all mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Using a new gasket, install the water pump to the cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight.

17. Lubricate the splines of the water pump with clean grease and install the assembly to the engine using new gaskets. Install the mounting bolts and nuts finger-tight.

18. Lubricate the radiator outlet pipe O-ring with antifreeze and slid the pipe onto the water pump cover. Install the bolts finger-tight.

19. With all gaps closed, tighten the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values:

Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).

Pump cover-to-pump assembly-106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).

Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).

Radiator outlet pipe assembly-to-pump cover-125 inch lbs. (14 Nm).

20. Using new gaskets, install the exhaust manifold. Make sure to following the tightening sequence and torque specifications given in the exhaust manifold procedure located in this section.

21. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

22. Index the exhaust manifold bolts into the exhaust pipe flange.

23. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the exhaust pipe flange bolts evenly and gradually to avoid binding. Turn the bolts in until fully seated.

24. Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan. Install the exhaust manifold brace, if removed.

25. On the 2.4L engine, install the timing chain tensioner and front cover.

26. Install the lower heat shield.

27. Carefully lower the vehicle.

28. Fasten the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.

29. Tighten the manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts to specification.

30. Install the upper heat shield.

31. Attach the oxygen sensor connector.

32. Fill the radiator with coolant until it comes out the heater hose outlet at the thermostat housing. Then connect the heater hose. Leave the radiator cap off.

33. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to their proper levels, then turn the engine off.

34. Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level.



Two 12 packs later you should be done. I hope I never see the day my waterpump goes on my Cavy.
 
mmm, I might be able to one up all of you.

Try changing a leaky gas tank on a 1990 Mazda Protege (see: rust, then see: rusted parts that break off when moved).

Next, try it in the rain, and wind, during the middle of the night. Finally, once you get it on, find out the filler neck is screwed and whenever you go around a turn the car stalls because the car isn't getting any gas. And remember....rain.

Get home at 6:00 am as the sun rises (after leaving the car at the place you were doing it and driving home in a company SUV) and realize how that was the worst night ever.
 
You'll have to bring the bolt to the firey depths of Mount Doom where it was forged, before its evil spreads all over the world!
 
It's an Audi, which means you need a lot of tools you wouldn't need for most cars. I drive a Passat and the thing is built like a mother. Damn near impossible for an owner to do his own mechanic work without some major tools.

Edit: What kind of Audi is it anyways? 5 cylinders is old school Audi, no?
 
So the tool is $150...I spent $180 on parts, 1 day taking it apart, 1 day on the crank bolt, now I have to wait today, order the part monday, hopefully have it tuesday and finish it wednesday.
 
maybe your cars thirsty, give it some water :)
 
Have you tried spraying the bolt with that de-rusting & releasing spray?

I've only had a tinsy winsy bit of trouble with my car changing the oil filter (mainly because its located directly under the engine) and the brake pads (because the last people to change them used some sort of super-spanner to put the bolts in). These only ruined about two hours of a good weekend though, I feel sorry for you.

That reminds me, I need to give my baby her winter service.
 
I'm sorry, but I eretefeloelled...

Sucks tho, I remember the trouble we had with bolts, that, uh got bolted in... have you try any special sprays that are supposed to loosen bolted screws?
 
wow. you totally screwed yourself. toolbooth speaks the truth :p
 
You're not thinking forth dimensionally, Marty!

doc_brown.jpg
 
geese thats crazy. Audi must have crazy german robots left over from WWII to tighten bolts....
 
whats whit all these cars threads lately
 
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