mx518 vs. Deathadder

VirusType2

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Here I will compare two of the best mice I've ever used, the Logitech mx518 (older 1600dpi version) and the Razer Deathadder.

This comparison is not to show which mouse is better, but to help determine which mouse is better for you.


Photos:

Deathadder (2 versions shown)

Deathadder with LED lights turned off.
Mx518 (image on left shows what it looks like after using it for about a year) (note the mx518 has a hologram surface to appear to be dented)


Reliability: mx518 (Deathadder's scroll wheel had a slight malfunction from the start was RMA'd. Waiting for my new one in the mail. My mx518 has been working perfectly for nearly 2 years.)

Mouse feet slide: Deathadder (The Teflon feet glide flawlessly. It really is an improvement over the mx518)

Amount of assignable buttons: mx518 (3 more buttons)

Scroll wheel: mx518 (this scroll wheel is perfect in my opinion. Deathadder scroll wheel is very stiff and just very unlikable)

Ergonomics[comfort and hand contour]: Deathadder (the lower profile and shape of the mouse feels much better. The side buttons are placed better. mx518 hurts my hand a bit. I have long fingers.)

Tracking: Deathadder (according to tests, though in practice the limits of either mouse are probably never exceeded.)

Accuracy: Deathadder (perhaps thanks to the Teflon feet, making guiding it smoother)

Aesthetics: Deathadder (mx518 is one of the ugliest mice I've ever seen. Deathadder one of the best looking)

Button clicky noise: mx518 (Deathadder button clicks are loud)

Top speed: Deathadder (mx518 just isn't fast enough for my tastes. Deathadder has speed to spare, and I don't have to set to full speed.)

Grime buildup: mx518 (Deathadder has perfectly smooth sides and grime is very obvious and icky feeling. The mouse often feels sticky from skin oils)

Build quality:mx518 (It feels more solidly built and I've been using it for nearly 2 years without any problems. Cosmetically, the badge on the top has worn badly. The coating on the side of the mouse where my thumb rests has begun to peel, but this is purely cosmetic. On the other hand, the Deathadder I purchased was malfunctioning right out of the box.)

Weight: Deathadder (slightly lighter and feels less unwieldy - though that may be in part due to the shape)

Configuration menu: Deathadder (the configuration menu is clear and better laid out.)

Extra buttons (in practice): mx518 (Though still very useful, the Deathadder's extra buttons do strange things, like executing on release of the button instead of when you press it in. In other applications, holding the button works like holding the button. I don't understand why sometimes it works one way and other times it works the other. Not only that but holding the button for just a split-second often results in several button presses in some applications. Thanks to macros, this does have workarounds, however.)

LED lights: Deathadder (the Deathadder has optional LED lights. I was skeptical, but the lights look great. The lights are warm however. The heat on your hand generates extra hand sweat, and is not necessarily wanted, but I could see a use for these in the winter, when my hands are often cold! They can be turned on and off individually.)

Lift Off: mx518 (This doesn't apply to me personally, but low sensitivity users often must lift their mouse into the air to move it on the mouse pad. Lift off describes the undesirable cursor movement when the mouse is in the air. The deathadder must be lifted higher to keep from being seen)

Drivers: Deathadder (many gamers don't like to use mouse drivers. The Deathadder driver can be installed, configured exactly how you like it and then uninstalled if desired, and all the settings will be remembered. The mx518 can function without drivers installed, yet it won't remember any settings. Every time you boot the computer you will have to press the sensitivity button several times to increase the sensitivity, and special button assignments cannot be used.)

Other: Deathadder (the Deathadder has a feature called Prediction which works quite well. Prediction is very subtle and helps to hold a straight line when moving the mouse. A simple firmware update can remove prediction, however personally, I think I preferred it with prediction. It was well done, though the difference isn't all that significant.)

Tally Results
Razer Deathadder: 11
Logitech mx518: 8



You will have to weigh the pros and cons for yourself. For gaming alone, you might prefer the deathadder. For general use you might prefer the mx518.

Personally, I feel the scroll wheel on the mx518 is absolutely perfect for document and web browsing, but the cursor speed at 1600dpi is too low for me - a high sensitivity user.

Both of them have strong pros but unacceptable cons. One day, I will find a mouse that has everything I want and need. Despite that the Deathadder won the tally, I consider the mx518 a better mouse overall. I guess some aspects hold more weight for me than a tally system can represent. Regardless, personally, I may prefer to use the Deathadder because it is more comfortable for my hand. I think in the end, I may keep the mx518 for my general computer, and the Deathadder for my game computer.


I'm looking for the ultimate mouse, so please share your thoughts and opinions, and feel free to explain why another mouse functions better than either of these mice.
 
One day, I will find a mouse that has everything I want and need.
I did that for a while, lost hope and built my own mouse. That worked. Before I built it, I fixed the scrollwheel on the deathadder by replacing the rotary encoder with the one from a copperhead.


Good review. One thing though, the new revision of the MX518 also has an 1800dpi sensor. I also doubt that you would notice such a difference between them. I have an mx518 and a deathadder, and I can use them interchangeably without much difference in mouse speed. Also if you do the math, it's only 1/8th faster than the mx518.
 
I did that for a while, lost hope and built my own mouse. That worked. Before I built it, I fixed the scrollwheel on the deathadder by replacing the rotary encoder with the one from a copperhead.
I considered replacing the potentiometer on my Deathadder with one from an old mouse I have laying around, but it was brand new. I didn't want to screw it up. The solder points are so close together I'd need a magnifying glass and a lot of luck. Did you have to do any soldering to replace the encoder?(I assume that is the little plastic geared wheel that has teeth on it.)

Good review. One thing though, the new revision of the MX518 also has an 1800dpi sensor. I also doubt that you would notice such a difference between them. I have an mx518 and a deathadder, and I can use them interchangeably without much difference in mouse speed. Also if you do the math, it's only 1/8th faster than the mx518.
Thanks!

Really, 1800dpi? Thats great. Did they change the way it looks? I really don't like the hologram. A plain black top would be my choice if I had one.

It doesn't seem like the speed difference would be so great. I don't understand it, but my Deathadder is 2 or 3 times faster. It's super ****ing fast, I have to set it on like 6.5 out of 10, which is great, in case I want to go faster as I get used to it. I can't explain the discrepancy. It's not acceleration, which I despise.
 
Nice review, but I've never really had a need for a performance mouse. My $20 Logitech from Wal-Mart has always worked fine, Replaced it after 2 years because one of the feet came a little unglued, and that stuck to the mouse pad a lot. And if I ever needed extra buttons, then I just assigned them to the keyboard, my hands are big enough to reach from caps lock to enter.
 
And if I ever needed extra buttons, then I just assigned them to the keyboard, my hands are big enough to reach from caps lock to enter.

With one hand? Holy **** you have ogre hands. :p I've got long fingers and I'm more than 2 inches short from even being able to do that, doing it comfortably would require even bigger hands.

EDIT: Actually if I use my pinky and thumb I come within an inch.

EDIT2: actualyl, I'm stupid as ****. If I lay my hand sideways, I can reach using my middle finger and thumb but I have to basically spin my body to the side and twist my hand all up. This is one awkward key stroke.
 
Damn u wore that logo on the 518 out in just 1-2 years? Mine was still like new in terms of looks. (I had it replaced via Logitech cuz it was dyin on my)
 
Well, I guess that I do use a laptop, so that might be why... I'll take a picture sometime and post it, when I get a camera...
 
There's some minor soldering involved, nothing hard. I have some pictures from that procedure. pic1 pic2 pic3. Pic1 is the intestines of the copperhead, with the rotary encoder taken out, and the one from the deathadder next to it (already did the whole thing when I took the pictures). Pic2 is the deathadder with the copperhead one soldered in. Pic3 is just the crappy one from the deathadder.

The new MX518 is just a revision, so the old one has phased out. They're still the same in every other way as far as I know.

The speed difference is probably due to settings. You'll be very either interested or very well known with this guide to set up your mouse. http://www.overclock.net/computer-peripherals/173255-cs-s-mouse-optimization-guide.html

Last thing, from my experience with messing up/with mice, I'd argue that the deathadder has a much higher build quality. Much thicker and stronger plastic, less fiddly hardware and 0 moving parts except for the buttons and scrollwheel. pic4. This thing can survive any cs professional.
 
Great post, Brick, very useful information and pictures. The USB connector is gold plated, but wow, gold plated chip even.

I'm curious why you replaced the encoder (POT (potentiometer)) in the Deathadder. Was it broken, malfunctioning, or does that change the speed or ease of scrolling?

I'm dying to know more, if my mice break, I will definitely be taking them apart to repair or tweak them. (I've been taking everything apart since I was about 9. My oldest brother was an computer repairman, Electronic Technician, then an Arcade Machine repairman when I was a kid)
 
I'll stick with my second-gen G5. Even with the silly gimmicky weight cartridge.
 
I think it's important to point out that the issues about negative acceleration and such other issues with the Deathadder mentioned in The Brick's link about mouse tweaking have been fixed in the Deathadder updates. My mouse came with a pretty recent revision, but there was still 1 newer update available.

One concern of mine is the Infrared sensor in the Deathadder. I never turn my computer off, and I am concerned that, over time, it will kill the sensor. The mx518 certainly doesn't have this problem, since I've had it plugged in for years without turning off my computer. I wish I knew someone that has had the Deathadder and leaves their computer on.
 
Why do you think infrared changes anything?

I replaced the thing because the one in the deathadder was too loose, it didn't read 'clicks' properly (sometimes it thought the clickpoint was right in a restpoint, meaning it would scroll up/down from just touching the wheel), and the 'feel' of a click didn't feel solid enough. I had already tried a bunch of things to fix some of the issues, but nothing worked really well (you can see a piece of plastic I wedged in it in pic1). Also because it was making reading errors. Sometimes it would translate 1 scroll as 2 scrolls. But that last bug wasn't fixed, so I guess it's a problem somewhere in the firmware.
 
Why do you think infrared changes anything?
I don't think it does, I don't know either way. I'm just worried it might, simply because I think I read on the box or something that it was "always on" and I've read dozens of people complain that using the 1000hz USB polling setting will kill the infrared sensor very quickly. So that's all. I don't know. Do you leave your computer on all the time?
I replaced the thing because the one in the deathadder was too loose, it didn't read 'clicks' properly (sometimes it thought the clickpoint was right in a restpoint, meaning it would scroll up/down from just touching the wheel), and the 'feel' of a click didn't feel solid enough. I had already tried a bunch of things to fix some of the issues, but nothing worked really well (you can see a piece of plastic I wedged in it in pic1). Also because it was making reading errors. Sometimes it would translate 1 scroll as 2 scrolls. But that last bug wasn't fixed, so I guess it's a problem somewhere in the firmware.
See that's exactly the same problem I had.

I contacted razer support, they gave me a list of things to try. None of them changed anything, so I replied back that the scrolling glitch was unacceptable. They replied back that, "yes, it did sound like I needed a replacement mouse".

I was concerned that it might be an inherent flaw in all Deathadders. Scrolling twice for one click? Seriously? That is completely unacceptable! But I've already bought the mouse, all I can do is exchange it. Replacing the encoder doesn't fix the double scroll glitch? GOD DAMN IT.


On another note, I just noticed in this picture that the Guild Wars Deathadder has a larger slot in the middle, which separates the two main mouse buttons. I'll bet that makes the mouse buttons easier to press. Though the difference would be minimal, and it's not like the buttons are hard to press in the first place, I think that might be something I'd prefer.
 
I shut my pc down overnight, but I've been using my deathadder(sensor) for well over 2 years now at 500hz without any trouble (I had it on 1000hz for a while, but lowered it because of cpu usage). I don't know much at all about the technical details of infrared sensors, but the only sense that I can make is that the infrared beam is a lot less energetic than lightbeams of optical mice. Not sure how it compares to laser, but since that also uses infrared, I don't think it differs much.

I always make buttons more sensitive by gluing a thin piece of plastic to the end of the pin that presses on the click sensor (seen in pic1). That works wonders.
 
I always make buttons more sensitive by gluing a thin piece of plastic to the end of the pin that presses on the click sensor (seen in pic1). That works wonders.
Yeah, that's a good idea. I love the short-travel switches on my Fatality Keyboard for example.

So, I'm just trying to confirm this, you replaced the encoder but still have the problem with the scroll wheel glitching? (Y/N)

If it's a firmware or driver thing, I guess we can always hope they will be able to fix it with an update. (not likely)

I was just doing some research to see how widespread the problem is. At first I suspected that some people that claim they don't have the problem just haven't noticed it. But now I believe that some people have the problem and some don't.

Like these threads are pretty condemning, for Razer mice in general:
http://www.blaenkdenum.com/tried-to-fix-razer-diamondbacks-jerky-scroll/
http://www.gotfrag.com/cs/forums/thread/403404/
 
Nice review. I generally tend to go for the very cheapest and simplest mice I can find, mainly because funky ergonomics and extra buttons usually just feel counterintuitive to me. There's also the fact that I just use my crappy broken mouse in a tiny 5" x 8" space, at hyper sensitivity, using a tatty envelope as a mat, so no mouse is likely to perform well.

I do like the look of the Deathadder. However, the problems with the scroll-wheel which you and Brick are discussing are a turn off.

BTW: if you're not happy with the way your tally adds up to a score which doesn't reflect your opinion, you could always change the weighting/points value of the different review criteria. That could give you a more easy to digest conclusion for people to skim, but only if you're interested in polishing the review. Fine as it is, anyhow.
 
I've got so many mice, I think I'll line them up like a fleet and take a picture later. I've got about 10, several of which do not work any more.

@Laivasse

I expected the DA to win. I just wouldn't recommend it over the mx518 because of my experience with it.

I would like it better if it weren't for the wheel issue, which appears to be some sort of manufacturing flaw or someshit. If I get another one that does it, I'm going to see if I can't get my money back somehow.

I mean talk about stupid. Make a mouse that can't even do the task for which it was designed? It's like building a Ferrari that steers crazy every once on a while, all by itself. WTF. No. It can't be.

It's just that I had to go back to the mx518 while I wait for the DA to return, and I'm realizing that there are some things that I like better about it.

In the long run, I may end up with a Frankenstein mouse, a DA with mx518 wheel, but I usually don't take things apart until they need to be fixed.
 
Does the DA have that type of wheel that has that rocker
Rock_emoticon.gif
function as well?
 
@Virus

I can understand the frustration, it drives me nuts too when manufacturers take shortcuts with build quality just because they think it might slip under the radar of most people.
And a picture of my hand on the keyboard to clarify why I don't need extra buttons.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd307/zsm8218/0901091844.jpg

Sorry about the shitty quality pics, it's from my phone.
Andre? We all thought you were dead...!
 
I have big hands too, but there are only so many buttons I can realistically use while strafe-jumping, etc. I tend to put things like "switch to melee" and "push to talk" on my mouse4 and mouse5.
 
So, I'm just trying to confirm this, you replaced the encoder but still have the problem with the scroll wheel glitching? (Y/N)

If it's a firmware or driver thing, I guess we can always hope they will be able to fix it with an update. (not likely)

Y. And I've tried a bunch of different firmwares.

In the long run, I may end up with a Frankenstein mouse, a DA with mx518 wheel, but I usually don't take things apart until they need to be fixed.
Well I did.
 
Apologies for the necromancy, however as mentioned in previous threads the MX518 is prone to dying (older models only), and someone's done a nice summary of the problem (cable) and solution (replace): http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/48851/

I'm going to see if I can still RMA mine. If not, off to the lab to try and replace the cable.
 
I had to continue using the Logitech mx518 while I was waiting for my Deathadder, and it's still working fine. I routed the wire so it is never pulled on, maybe that's why I haven't had a problem. Maybe you did the same?

Anyway, last week (many months later), I got my replacement Deathadder back, finally; another brand new one, and it is still malfunctioning, so it's obviously a flaw in the design. Never buying anything Razer again.
 
I have Razer Lycosa and a Deathadder and they have been working flawlessly for the past year.
 
Maybe you can help me work around my problem, Escape.

Do you cycle through photos with the Deathadder using the mouse wheel? That's where the problem becomes obvious for me. It twitches out and goes up and down the photos when I use the scroll wheel. It does it once per wheel rotation, always when scrolling up, but only sometimes when scrolling down.

Do you use an alternate way of looking through photos/documents, for example, using the keyboard?

What image viewer do you use?

I wish there was a way to remove this issue, because I can't stand it.
 
I used to have a mouse pad that let me loop my cord so I never pulled on the cord.
Now I just loop the cord around my right speaker that sits on my desk. Leave enough slack on the desk.
So my cord doesn't get tight or caught on the back of my desk. I've seen people pull their mouse just to get the cord unstuck and I'm sure that is how a lot of cords get pulled out over time.
 
Between my MX518 and my Razer Diamondback, I'd say I prefer my Diamondback. Although I've never done any gaming on the MX518.

Diamondback has the smoothest cord evar. I think the cord quality should be listed among the criteria.

I'll definitely go for a Razer as my next mouse.
 
I'm not sure strength can be judged by wire thickness, but for what it's worth, my mx518 has a much thicker cord than my Deathadder.

I haven't had a problem with either - actually, I've never had a problem with any mouse cord.
 
I'm debating on whether I should get a new mouse or not. I need something that is comfortable with my monster hands and is responsive enough for gaming. Millions of buttons are not a necessity, but would not be unwelcome. Any suggestions?
 
It's not about strength, but about how it doesn't get in your way and the loose, thin cord of the Deathadder (and presumably other Razer mice) is awesome. With a loose cord, when the cord hits something, almost no energy of your movement is lost by transferring it to the object it touches, it just folds around it.

The cord of the 518 is definitely more stiff.
 
When it comes to Viper's broken mouse cord, it is about strength (durability would be more accurate).

I have no problem with the thin mouse cords. It's a feature of a gaming mouse, and one that I like.

Personally, (checking them out now), I don't notice much of a difference in the two mice. Both have specially designed soft and thin gaming mouse cords, they are about identical in terms of flexibility. I actually can't be sure my mx518 isn't more flexible, despite being a little thicker and heavier.

Anyway, this is almost an embarrassing thing to be arguing about, so I digress.

What I really want to know is what image viewer you Deathadder users are using to view images, because that's where my main problem with the Deathadder lies. I'm pretty sure I tried other image viewers months ago with my other Deathadder, but I can't remember!
 
If you don't like a cord snagging or providing resistance when mousing then you can always get a mouse bungee. I've had one for years and along with the relatively thick cord of my G5 i don't experience any resistance or movement other than that which i am applying myself.
 
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