So my computer isn't turning on...

[Stigmata]

I disassembled it, bubblewrapped it, put it in a backpack, bussed to London, and put it in a really old case. Everything is plugged in where it should be, the motherboard's power indicator turns on, and all the fans spin when I power it on. It turns on for about five seconds, and turns off before it can POST. Nothing clicks or sounds like it's shorting out. I think it might be a CPU issue because for a long time now, my computer would take about five seconds after powering on before it would fully boot and POST/show the motherboard splash screen.

Specs:
AMD Athlon64 x2 5200+ (2.7GHz, clocked down to 2.4)
Asus M2N32-SLI Deluxe

I don't know what to do. I took out my RAM, reseated everything, took out the CMOS, removed everything but the videocard and RAM, but it's the same problem every time.

 

[Vegeta897]

Did the PSU somehow get switched to 240v?

 

[Stigmata]

Hahaha, I don't think so. It has an internal automatic voltage switch.

 

[MorganFreeman911]

Have you checked to make sure that EVERYTHING is plugged in to the PSU?

 

[Stigmata]

Yes. Everything is plugged in. 24pin power, the extra 4pin connector, the 6pin PCI-e connector for the video card, power and data cables for DVD and HDD. And all the front panel connectors are plugged in correctly. The front-panel audio and USB aren't, because I can't remember where they go >_>

 

[MorganFreeman911]

Hmmmm.... Tired re plugging it in? Tried to start it a few times?

 

[Stigmata]

Tried. I have a feeling my CPU is broked.

 

[MorganFreeman911]

Uh oh'z.

 

[VirusType2]

Does it smell burnt? If it smells burnt, then something is probably bad.

If I suspect the CPU, I would re-seat the CPU and HS Fan. Look at the back of the board and make sure the CPU fan is all the way on.

Electronics do not like being outside because they can easily get condensation and for the wild temperature changes. Try to wait before using it after it's been outside.

You bubble wrapped the motherboard? Did you drain the power by holding the power button before disconnecting it? Capacitors on the board store power.

 

[unozero]

if anything its the PSU.

 

[G-Dub]

Yeah I'd start with the PSU if I was you.

 

[Asus]

You bubblewrapped the PC? That makes it sound like you did not use anti-static bags...(if the parts were seperated)

I know most boards will beep during POST if you have forgot to put the CPU in. Maybe leave it out and see if it beeps. Otherwise the Motherboard could be out (if it is working but not getting to POST) or maybe the PSU (and the mobo is fine but just not getting juice to turn on). If you have a 2nd PC to try it out on then you can find out which it is. Or buy a 2nd PSU for testing and return it if it doesn't help. hehe

Are there any lights or post code LEDs on your motherboard that light up?

 

[Vegeta897]

You bubblewrapped the PC? That makes it sound like you did not use anti-static bags...(if the parts were seperated)

I was wondering about something like this but didn't know enough about the subject and didn't want to embarrass myself.

 

[Pi Mu Rho]

Static bags really don't make a lot of difference.

 

[Asus]

Sometimes I have my parts just in a box without bags in my closet but I doubt I would want to ship it without (silver type, not clear). Putting the whole computer, still with parts in the case, into a box or using bubblewrap is fine.
...as long as your heatsink is light so it is less likely to come loose inside (think pinball machine).

 

[Stigmata]

I'm fairly sure it's the CPU. I unlocked the heatsink, pulled up, and the CPU came straight out of the still-locked AM2 socket. None of the pins are bent from that, but I can't get the CPU off of the heatsink now, even with my compound remover.

 

[VirusType2]

Why didn't the latch hold the CPU.

Don't understand.

 

[Asus]

I've had a CPU stuck to the heatsink before when trying to remove it. I ended up pulling the CPU out with it attached to the bottom of the heatsink. And of course to actually use the bar the HSF had to be removed first. Never got a chance to touch it. Had to bend back the first row of pins. CPU still worked. Just because it came out while the bar was down doesn't mean any thing is broke. You'd have to get a working system to test a CPU otherwise it really could be anything still.

Just have to keep twisting the CPU to get it removed from the bottom of the heatsink.

 

[VirusType2]

A hot Hair dryer is best for removing adhesives. You're talking to a pro here.

CPU should be able to handle like 150 degrees Fahrenheit, which is much hotter than a hair dryer gets (I would think) - but check your CPU specs, because I don't have the same CPU.

By the way, you just hold the heat on the spot your trying to pull apart for a few moments, not long. Then twist like Asus suggested. Don't use a blade to pry, it will scratch the surface of the CPU.

 

[Unfocused]

Does it smell burnt? If it smells burnt, then something is probably bad.

That's a common misconception - actually the more burnt it smells, the better.


On a serious note - you said nothing clicks, but do you have the motherboard speaker plugged in? If not, plug it in, there might be some beeps coming from the motherboard, which could indicate what the problem is.

 

[Asus]

I actually wouldn't use a hair dryer. There is more there to melt then just adhesive (solder).

 

[Stigmata]

Thanks for the advice guys. I was about to try hairdrying it, but I twisted the CPU and it came right off (after leaving it with thermal compound remover around the edges overnight). The compound seems exceptionally sticky for some reason, maybe I didn't use enough last time I mounted it? The die looks fine though, no scratches or bent pins, and I'm just about to clean it up and remount it.

 

[VirusType2]

That's a common misconception - actually the more burnt it smells, the better.


On a serious note -

You joking? If I'm remembering what he told me 20 years ago correctly, my bro is an electronic technician - trust me, you can smell when something is burnt, but that doesn't always mean something broke, because dust can smell burnt as well, if it gets hot enough. But bad components don't always smell, there are different ways of breaking.

I actually wouldn't use a hair dryer. There is more there to melt then just adhesive (solder).

Nah, the processor is designed to handle much high of a temperature, and the melting point of solder is much higher.

Solder is a fusible metal alloy with a melting point or melting range of 90 to 450 °C (200 to 840 °F)

Plus it won't be aimed at the pins or anything.

Don't know what CPU he's got, but:

booted up and it started giving me a high temp warning. It showed cpu temp as 98 degree Celsius

(98C = 208.4 ºF)
That was just a warning.

If he thinks its dead and can't get it off, this will work. But yeah, it's a risk, I guess.



I would guess the hair drier put on the spot for about 5-8 seconds would be enough to break it loose, and the temperature (I would think) wouldn't get more than like 130 or 140 Fahrenheit if it was left on at very close range.

I could be wrong about hair dryer temp, but it does work, as they use them (often special heat guns that are basically the same thing) to remove labels in professional fields. That way it comes off perfectly clean in one piece instead of 1000's of little pieces, residue still remaining.

I personally use a hair dryer to remove labels from things. Say you bought something awesome and there is a gigantic price tag stuck to it and it won't come off. Heat it up for a moment and it just gums up and peels off easily.

EDIT:

Thanks for the advice guys. I was about to try hairdrying it, but I twisted the CPU and it came right off (after leaving it with thermal compound remover around the edges overnight). The compound seems exceptionally sticky for some reason, maybe I didn't use enough last time I mounted it? The die looks fine though, no scratches or bent pins, and I'm just about to clean it up and remount it.

OK, that's good.

 

[MorganFreeman911]

You joking? If I'm remembering what he told me 20 years ago correctly, my bro is an electronic technician - trust me, you can smell when something is burnt, but that doesn't always mean something broke, because dust can smell burnt as well, if it gets hot enough. But bad components don't always smell, there are different ways of breaking.

Yes, he was joking.

 

[Stigmata]

Reseated the CPU and it's still the same story.

[edit] Also I don't think my motherboard has a speaker, and neither does my case, so I don't think I can do anything to hear error codes.

 

[VirusType2]

I'm not sure of your expertise - did the RAM clip in, and the latches close by themselves? A problem with the RAM and it won't post. It happened to me one time, took forever to realize what was wrong.

 

[Unfocused]

Yes, he was joking.

Yes, I was joking

 

[VirusType2]

Yeah, I was nearly sure you were, I just thought the information might be helpful. You kind of got me because I had already started to respond before reading the whole thing, so i figured I might as well follow through.

 

[Stigmata]

I'm not sure of your expertise - did the RAM clip in, and the latches close by themselves? A problem with the RAM and it won't post. It happened to me one time, took forever to realize what was wrong.

Yeah, the RAM clipped in. I've tested each stick individually as well.

 

[VirusType2]

Well, we are getting somewhere.

Others have already pointed that it might be the PSU, I'll suggest some more possibilities - like, did you plug the switches in correctly? The power and HDD lights plug in vertically in all the boards I've seen. But eh, if it turns on - shit I don't know ---you tried getting into the BIOS with no Hard drives hooked up?

Try it without the video card and any adapters also, I guess.

 

[barbarbarbarbar]

I had a similar problem and it turned out that it was the graphics card.

 

[Stigmata]

The hard drive and DVD drive haven't been connected for the past few tries I'll try without the video card right now. I kind of hope that's the problem, because I was planning on buying a new one this week anyway.

[edit] Still nothing. I'm beginning to think it's my motherboard. It's going on 3.5 years old now.

 

[Asus]

If they are IDE drives then the jumpers matter. So make sure you plug them in like you had them before or change the jumpers (master/slave or single). It may not post if setup incorrectly and fool you into thinking it isn't on. (I've had it happen when I had one disconnected and the other IDE plugged in. Don't remember which was master or slave though.)

 

[Stigmata]

Asus: The HDD is SATA2, and the DVD drive is IDE with the jumper properly set.

Everyone: Update! I bought a new PSU and case (which came with a little mobo speaker) and the same stuff happens. If anything, it now shuts down slightly quicker. Also I don't get any error beeps from the speaker (and I've tried reversing its orientation on that front-panel connector thing). I take this all to mean that my CPU and/or mobo is ****ed, which brings me to a slight dilemma. Should I:

a) Take back the PSU, sell my GPU, buy a new mobo/CPU/GPU

b) Take back the PSU, take apart my computer, sell it piecewise, buy a netbook and an Xbox 360, and wait until next fall to build a gaming PC

?

 

[VirusType2]

I guess you tried the new PSU without the GPU?

If the CPU is worth hanging on to, I'd see about replacing the motherboard. What kind of GPU do you have?

Specs:
AMD Athlon64 x2 5200+ (2.7GHz, clocked down to 2.4)
Asus M2N32-SLI Deluxe

I can't understand why that motherboard is so expensive.

You should get a $100 [non-SLI] MoBo with AM3 socket and a $150 quad core, and call it a day.

I paid $360 for an i5-750, MoBo, and 4GB dual channel RAM. **** consoles, bro.

 

[Stigmata]

My current important specs are:

Asus M2N32 SLI Deluxe Motherboard
AMD Athlon64 X2 5200+ @2.4GHz
2GB DDR2-800 RAM (4-3-4-12)
ATI Radeon X1900XT 512MB

I'm looking at a really cheap Gigabit AM3 motherboard and the AMD Athlon II 250, which apparently overclocks from 3.0GHz to 3.75GHz on stock cooling, and costs me about $85 with shipping. And DDR3 memory is pretty cheap these days too. I really like MW2, but on the other hand I really like TF2.

[edit] Also this computer store near me is selling the Radeon HD4850 1GB for something like $130 Canadian. Should I be as excited as I am?

 

[Viperidae]

[edit] Also this computer store near me is selling the Radeon HD4850 1GB for something like $130 Canadian. Should I be as excited as I am?

If you're going to spend $130, get the 4870 instead.

But it'll bottleneck your planned cpu. I'd recommend just going cheaper on the gpu.

 

[Stigmata]

Are you sure? It seems like a pretty good CPU to me. Granted I'm trying to stay as cheap as possible here...

 

[Viperidae]

I guess the biggest question is what resolution is your monitor.

My monitor is 1280x1024. I'm picking up a new HD 5770 tomorrow, which is essentially a derivative of the 4870. At 1280x1024, an 8800gt would offer me essentially the same performance as either of those at $40 less.

Some games like Assassin's Creed 1 can't even scale properly at lower resolutions--they bottleneck at a constant 60fps after the 4xxx series. Point is: unless you're running really high resolutions, a 4870 is super overkill.

Don't put too much by the graph, but it gives you a general idea.

I'd recommend getting a better cpu and upgrading the vid card in a few months. Nvidia will release their dx11 cards soon, which will hopefully drive the price of DX10 ATI cards even lower.

Of course: that doesn't help if you have money now and won't have more in the future...

 

[VirusType2]

What OS are you using? I'm pretty sure that with Windows XP, the video card is going to be the biggest factor for games. Not as much for Vista and 7. I'm not sure how significant the difference is though. Actually, maybe I'm thinking of DX10 and 11 compared to DX9, so then it would depend on the DX version the game uses.

Hopefully that makes sense. Anyway, I would definitely look to replacing the x1900, that's for sure, but it sounds like you've got something else that must be replaced - something fried. So see if you can spread your money around.