Computer for my bro

[VirusType2]

Oh, it's a brand new drive too. Probably no reason at all to full format. Nothin' but 'Oh's.': 0000000000000000000000

 

[Raziaar]

Well, the thing Asus said worked!

Woot.

It's up and running and working beautifully. He's installing antivirus and all that shit as fast as he can so he can play some games.

Oh and Virus, that case you recommended is awesome. It's so ****ing roomy with the motherboard in there. We're going to buy more fans because it has room for LOTS of 120mm fans. And it has some nifty little features on it that I haven't seen on other cases... some of them built kind of cheap, but still kind of cool. The retaining clips for the expansion cards are awesome though, holding them in there nicely. The front cover comes off very simply, no frustrations with that.

Yes, I am horrid at cable management.



You guys are all ****ing awesome, thank you again for all the help. Especially Virus and Asus helping me through til the end.

 

[Quixoticism]

Glad you were finally able to get it working. Looks like a sexy beast on the inside.
Now you need to make a performance report for us!

 

[Raziaar]

I don't know what kind of performance report to give other than it seems to tackle any game thrown at it with flying colors just like mine. We just did Just Cause 2... but that didn't even give my computer any issues.

I think I have a PCMark or something around here somewhere that came with my videocard. Or3DMark, whatever the newest one is.

 

[TwwIX]

I don't know what kind of performance report to give other than it seems to tackle any game thrown at it with flying colors just like mine. We just did Just Cause 2... but that didn't even give my computer any issues.

I think I have a PCMark or something around here somewhere that came with my videocard. Or futuremark, whatever the newest one is.

I wouldn't worry about how the cable management looks as long as it doesn't interfere with the airflow.


What case is that?
What GFX card did you finally go with?

 

[Raziaar]

I wouldn't worry about how the cable management looks as long as it doesn't interfere with the airflow.


What case is that?
What GFX card did you finally go with?

Case:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119152

Graphics Card:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102857


I never did get a response back from you what you meant by reference card. I tried to look it up and only found information about different heatsink/fan on it.

Sapphire had one called Toxic, which looked nice... had a new fan and heatsinks and stuff on it. Cost like 70 bucks more though. I checked out a review on it from either Anandtech or Tom's Hardware and they said it was the first non stock card they saw released, but in conclusion they said it wasn't really all that worth it for the price, because while it did cool the card and stuff by some, it wasn't tremendous and the card already ran cool.

So we went with the cheaper route for the 5850 and got the Sapphire version above. It had many satisfied customers.

 

[TwwIX]

Case:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119152

Graphics Card:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102857


I never did get a response back from you what you meant by reference card. I tried to look it up and only found information about different heatsink/fan on it.

Sapphire had one called Toxic, which looked nice... had a new fan and heatsinks and stuff on it. Cost like 70 bucks more though. I checked out a review on it from either Anandtech or Tom's Hardware and they said it was the first non stock card they saw released, but in conclusion they said it wasn't really all that worth it for the price, because while it did cool the card and stuff by some, it wasn't tremendous and the card already ran cool.

So we went with the cheaper route for the 5850 and got the Sapphire version above. It had many satisfied customers.

I explained it in one of my previous posts.

Non-reference cards have a fan in the middle. The Sapphire Toxic is a non reference.
An overpriced piece of shit if you ask me.
They don't overclock as well as reference cards, if at all. That basically reduces their value in the long run.

Reference cards have a fan at the butt of it, such as the one that you have purchased.
From what i have read and heard, they overclock very well. You can overclock it up to the stock speeds of a 5870's. That's about a 30% performance increase for almost half the price. Well, depending on how much you have paid for it. Anyway, you made the right choice.

 

[Quixoticism]

Reference cards are what ATI and nVidia designate as the card should be, and relates to the heatsinks on the cards and also to clock speeds and some other things. Occasionally you'll read in a review how the card they received wasn't a reference card as it had been given a stock overclock, etc.
At least that's how I understand it.

 

[Raziaar]

I explained it in one of my previous posts.

Non-reference cards have a fan in the middle. The Sapphire Toxic is a non reference.
An overpriced piece of shit if you ask me.
They don't overclock as well as reference cards, if at all. That basically reduces their value in the long run.

Reference cards have a fan at the butt of it, such as the one that you have purchased.
From what i have read and heard, they overclock very well. You can overclock it up to the stock speeds of a 5870's. That's about a 30% performance increase for almost half the price. Well, depending on how much you have paid for it. Anyway, you made the right choice.

Hmm... I see.

Weren't you advocating going for a non reference 5850 earlier in the thread, page 2?

Now I'm all kinds of confused. But I am thrilled to hear that I made the right decision.

Reference cards are what ATI and nVidia designate as the card should be, and relates to the heatsinks on the cards and also to clock speeds and some other things. Occasionally you'll read in a review how the card they received wasn't a reference card as it had been given a stock overclock, etc.
At least that's how I understand it.

Makes sense. I was thinking that it had something to do with like a default recommendation for the card. But that manufacturers were free to change it up and add all their fancy fans and heatsinks and overclocking potential and stuff. Basically buying a stock car or bike and modifying the hell out of it... more horsepower, all chromed, etc.

Glad you were finally able to get it working. Looks like a sexy beast on the inside.
Now you need to make a performance report for us!

Oh yeah... and the photo doesn't do the motherboard justice. It ruined the color which is more of an appealing dark blue. And it looks nice with all the nice heatsinks and stuff on the chipset and other places.

 

[TwwIX]

Hmm... I see.

Weren't you advocating going for a non reference 5850 earlier in the thread, page 2?

Now I'm all kinds of confused. But I am thrilled to hear that I made the right decision.

Oops, you are right.

I guess i was about to describe what non reference cards are before i took the post into another direction. Sorry, about that. I tend to do that half of the time without double checking my posts.

 

[Raziaar]

Well hmm....

My bro's computer is freezing. We were out of the room this morning for a little bit, and he came back and it said it had unexpectedly restarted.

We checked his CPU temperatures, and it was running about 45-46 celsius, but it was at a high of 60 degrees.

It seems to be running rather hot all things considered. I wouldn't think that if it wasn't spiking for some reason up to 60+.

I'm concerned now... using that stuff that was on the heatsink. Maybe we haven't given it enough time, but hmm. the spread was in three areas, looked like a machine put it on. It looked like the color of arctic silver so I wasn't too concerned about it.

The heatsink is kind of weird and... worrisome though. I'm fairly certain I got it on there how it's supposed to be, but it still makes me nervous. It's like barely on there, and all you do is twist the thing and it frictions against the plastic of itself and tightens to the motherboard.

I'm going to have to figure out why it's doing that.

He's using two antispyware programs... Avast, and one he bought a long time ago, called XoftSpySe. Two antispyware wouldn't cause freezes and restarts do you think?

When his computer did freeze, we were in Core Temp, and trying to put the monitor on his taskbar... changing the color. His computer stopped responding except for his mouse moving visually on screen, until that too stopped.

 

[VirusType2]

What kind of legacy hardware do you have hooked up? PCI adapters, USB devices?

The heatsink is kind of weird and... worrisome though. I'm fairly certain I got it on there how it's supposed to be, but it still makes me nervous. It's like barely on there, and all you do is twist the thing and it frictions against the plastic of itself and tightens to the motherboard.

twist what thing? There should be 4 plastic posts that snap into the holes in the motherboard. You were supposed to observe from the rear of the motherboard if they snapped all the way in.

Recheck all the BIOS settings. Did you set the timings correctly on the RAM?

As for breaking in the thermal paste, I powered up the computer until it reached full temperature and then shut it down for about 20 minutes (to allow it to cool to room temperature) several times over the period of a few days.

 

[Raziaar]

What kind of legacy hardware do you have hooked up? PCI adapters, USB devices?


twist what thing? There should be 4 plastic posts that snap into the holes in the motherboard. You were supposed to observe from the rear of the motherboard if they snapped all the way in.

Recheck all the BIOS settings. Did you set the timings correctly on the RAM?

As for breaking in the thermal paste, I powered up the computer until it reached full temperature and then shut it down for about 20 minutes (to allow it to cool to room temperature) several times over the period of a few days.

Heh man... the manual for the CPU heatsink was so ****ing terrible. It was just pictures and they just said to twist those things.

We'll redo it and check from the back if they snapped in.

We'll check out the memory timings, and I'll download a memcheck tool so we can check the memory for faultiness.


EDIT: We can't see what's going on in the back, even with the back case plate taken off. there's vent holes in the back, but they show nothing of the area where the motherboard holes are for that thing.

It seems like it's on there good and tight though and solid.

We're going to check the ram timings now.


As for Legacy Devices... I dunno. He has a Microsoft Razor mouse that he thinks could be causing the problems, since it was causing freezes on his last computer. It's malfunctioning. 60 bucks on a mouse and it's failing too... clicking problems. Every god damn microsoft mouse has clicking problems that develop, even the expensive ones. No more microsoft mice for us.

He also has an XBOX 360 controller plugged in, USB headphones.


EDIT: Memory timings are all correct. 9-9-9-24


Do you know what memtest program I should use? Memtest86 won't work on 64 bit.

EDIT: Seems there is a Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool.

EDIT: No problems detected. I went ahead and disabled the automatic reboot on his computer, so if he gets a blue screen, we'll know the error code.

 

[VirusType2]

Heh man... the manual for the CPU heatsink was so ****ing terrible. It was just pictures and they just said to twist those things.

That's how you remove it! (just kidding, I don't remember)

The manual is fine. Learn2Engrish.

EDIT: No problems detected. I went ahead and disabled the automatic reboot on his computer, so if he gets a blue screen, we'll know the error code.

Yeah, that's exactly what to do. Write down the code and application.

Yes, use a different mouse.

 

[Raziaar]

That's how you remove it! (just kidding, I don't remember)

The manual is fine. Learn2Engrish.

Wasn't any writing in it.. just diagrams, which I followed. Showed nothing about how it's supposed to poke through the holes... though I assumed that's what it was doing... corkscrewing it down into the holes.

Yeah, that's exactly what to do. Write down the code and application.

Yes, use a different mouse.

He installed new drivers for it. If that doesn't work I'll let him use my mouse for a while and see if it still has errors. And will be monitoring error codes.

 

[VirusType2]

Wasn't any writing in it.. just diagrams, which I followed. Showed nothing about how it's supposed to poke through the holes... though I assumed that's what it was doing... corkscrewing it down into the holes.

They just snap in, brother. Apply pressure to the top of the four tabs and they snap into the motherboard.

You don't twist or screw anything. That's how you remove it, by placing a flat head screwdriver into the slots on the top and turning.

Look carefully at the instructions again. I'll dig mine out and see if mine's any better for whatever reason.

 

[VirusType2]

Looking at the picture you posted, it is NOT on correctly.

Keep the computer turned off for the moment while I see if I can dig out the instructions and provide any better instruction.

 

[VirusType2]

I can't find my instructions. This is the best I can do:

I think you will need to remove it it.

Lay the computer on its back, square it up with the holes, and snap each tab down with your thumb.

You may need to remove the motherboard, since you will be applying a degree of pressure. Use your judgment.

 

[Raziaar]

Man, I feel like such a dumb ****. You're right on the pictures... I was totally misinterpreting them. i was looking at that page, and the page for removal, and thinking in my head they were both showing that they needed a twist... a certain amount to lock it, and the rest of the way to remove it.

So I took the motherboard out... turns out I had it in there fine, I just removed the parts from being squeezed against the fan part which is apparently part of the removal process.

It's in there now... I don't think the temps are going to lower though, since it seems like it's on there as much as it was before... just less of a risk of it accidentally popping off now.

Thanks again Virus.

I feel like I've gotten dumber over the years when it comes to computer installation.

I just wonder why some of the cores could be spiking to 60 degrees during computer startup. It seems like it's random cores, mostly three and four. But they don't stay that hot during normal use, just when I first start up the Core Temp and the computer itself.

 

[VirusType2]

No problem. I also notice that the intel logo on the fan is sideways (on mine, the intel logo is orientated normally), but from memory, I don't think it makes any difference.

I don't know whats going on with temps, but as long as the heatsink is fully seated and the tabs are fully locked in, then I think it's fine. Just keep an eye on them for a while. They will certainly come down a little when it breaks in.

The fan might look dinky, but the heatsink itself is quite large and well designed. The fan spins so slowly, I can almost see the fan blades spinning. Therefore, the heatsink must be a very effective design.

 

[Warped]

I just gave my dad my laptop I got before Christmas because I don't use it. He seems to like it and its a Toshiba Satelite, 3GB of Ram, Win 7 32 bit, 250HDD, etc its all he needs. His Dell laptop took him 10 mins just to do a simple restart, this one takes like 35 seconds and he'll use it for music programs for recording and such. at $285 you can't go wrong

 

[Raziaar]

I just gave my dad my laptop I got before Christmas because I don't use it. He seems to like it and its a Toshiba Satelite, 3GB of Ram, Win 7 32 bit, 250HDD, etc its all he needs. His Dell laptop took him 10 mins just to do a simple restart, this one takes like 35 seconds and he'll use it for music programs for recording and such. at $285 you can't go wrong

The battery could explode.

No problem. I also notice that the intel logo on the fan is sideways (on mine, the intel logo is orientated normally), but from memory, I don't think it makes any difference.

I don't know whats going on with temps, but as long as the heatsink is fully seated and the tabs are fully locked in, then I think it's fine. Just keep an eye on them for a while. They will certainly come down a little when it breaks in.

The fan might look dinky, but the heatsink itself is quite large and well designed. The fan spins so slowly, I can almost see the fan blades spinning. Therefore, the heatsink must be a very effective design.

Now the heatsink/fan rotation I know I did correctly according to the diagram.

We'll keep watching the temps. He's playing Crysis Warhead right now, and I have him with his Core Temp up so that it'll record how high it gets during all that load for that length of time.

 

[Asus]

I'm not sure if that case has different holes on the back for the PSU but I would recommend flipping the PSU so the fan is on TOP (since it doesn't look like there is much space on the bottom to pull air in).

edit:Nvm. looks like you have a fan intake on the bottom below the PSU. Just make sure the PC is not on the carpet...but on a hard surface. If you think dust will be a problem then I would still flip the PSU and block that intake. It is pretty close to the surface the PC is sitting on (table) and will pick up more dust (like a vacuum) than the front vents.

 

[VirusType2]

What are the temps while playing?

Also, how does the computer handle Crysis? I haven't played that one, but I did check a futuremark requirement for the game, and the i5-750 was (from memory) something like double the requirement, so I guess it will all fall on the GPU (unless it streams a lot of data, then also the HDD).

 

[Raziaar]

I'm not sure if that case has different holes on the back for the PSU but I would recommend flipping the PSU so the fan is on TOP (since it doesn't look like there is much space on the bottom to pull air in).

edit:Nvm. looks like you have a fan intake on the bottom below the PSU. Just make sure the PC is not on the carpet...but on a hard surface. If you think dust will be a problem then I would still flip the PSU and block that intake. It is pretty close to the surface the PC is sitting on (table) and will pick up more dust (like a vacuum) than the front vents.

Yeah I was wondering about the PSU fan. There is the intake on the bottom like you said, and it will be on a hard surface, but I was wondering about dust. Being on the bottom like that seemed kind of weird. I will go ahead and flip the PSU while my brother is at work one of these days probably.

What are the temps while playing?

Also, how does the computer handle Crysis? I haven't played that one, but I did check a futuremark requirement for the game, and the i5-750 was (from memory) something like double the requirement, so I guess it will all fall on the GPU (unless it streams a lot of data, then also the HDD).

He's still playing Crysis. Didn't check the temps yet. It seems to handle the game very well. He has it mostly all on Enthusiast settings except for two options.


EDIT: Highest temp on all cores is max of 62 celsius under Crysis Warhead load.

 

[VirusType2]

Let him know to cool down the computer for a while for the first few days. 62 is high even with full on overclocking temps, and may indicate a problem with cooling. You should probably make sure it doesn't go over 70, though I've heard it can go all the way to 92 before damage. I believe it should reduce clocks and shut itself down if necessary, but this this might require the proper settings in the BIOS (though these settings are surely default).

However, I wouldn't shit yourself; it may be that some applications read temp from the motherboard(?), but others monitor temp from the CPU itself. My BIOS lists it quite high at idle, like 52-58, but when I run a software temp monitor in windows, it's says its 24-32 Celsius under 45% load

(45% is the maximum I have managed to make the CPU work, by running 6 HD movies and running a few quad core archive utilities and a bunch of other stuff). It's funny because I could bring my CeleronD to 99-100% CPU utilization by unzipping one archive and doing nothing else.

 

[TwwIX]

Get yourself a backplate

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...5233038&cm_re=xigmatek-_-35-233-038-_-Product

I never use those shitty plastic push pins. Their design is horrible.

You can also disable Smartfan in the bios, then use software such as Speed Fan to set the speed for the CPU fan manually.
I usually have all my fans running at full blast.

 

[Raziaar]

Let him know to cool down the computer for a while for the first few days. 62 is high even with full on overclocking temps, and may indicate a problem with cooling. You should probably make sure it doesn't go over 70, though I've heard it can go all the way to 92 before damage. I believe it should reduce clocks and shut itself down if necessary, but this this might require the proper settings in the BIOS (though these settings are surely default).

However, I wouldn't shit yourself; it may be that some applications read temp from the motherboard(?), but others monitor temp from the CPU itself. My BIOS lists it quite high at idle, like 52-58, but when I run a software temp monitor in windows, it's says its 24-32 Celsius under 45% load

(45% is the maximum I have managed to make the CPU work, by running 6 HD movies and running a few quad core archive utilities and a bunch of other stuff). It's funny because I could bring my CeleronD to 99-100% CPU utilization by unzipping one archive and doing nothing else.

Currently the computer case only has two fans. One intake on the front, and one outtake on the back. Well... the video card and PSU have their own intake and outtake too... but still.

The case can hold a bunch more, we just haven't gotten them yet, but we plan on it.

I wonder how much of an improvement it'll offer with all that extra outtake and intake.

should the side fans be outtake or intake by the way?

 

[VirusType2]

Well, I think a side fan should be intake, but that's assuming your rear fan is exhaust, of course. The flow of air is easy to understand, but finding the optimal flow is a different story.

I don't know that you need more fans or if you need a different CPU monitor. That's what I was getting at.

Well how many fans have you got? I see one at the back. Looks like there is a place to put two at the top. At least one there would be good, I think. Are there any in the front? Because if you just have the one at the back, then it could be just pulling air from the top of the case (that are just holes for fans, currently), and blowing that air right out the back. In other words, not doing shit.

I personally like how our Antec 900s have the intakes at the front. Is it possible to do this on the Centurion?

 

[Raziaar]

Well, I think a side fan should be intake, but that's assuming your rear fan is exhaust, of course. The flow of air is easy to understand, but finding the optimal flow is a different story.

I don't know that you need more fans or if you need a different CPU monitor. That's what I was getting at.

Well how many fans have you got? I see one at the back. Looks like there is a place to put two at the top. At least one there would be good, I think. Are there any in the front? Because if you just have the one at the back, then it could be just pulling air from the top of the case (that are just holes for fans, currently), and blowing that air right out the back. In other words, not doing shit.

I personally like how our Antec 900s have the intakes at the front. Is it possible to do this on the Centurion?

Two possible fans on the top of the case, two possible fans on the side of the case, one fan in the front bottom of the case, one fan in the rear top of the case.

if I get another HD mounting thing like the one currently in the case I can put another fan in the front of the case. I'm not sure where the other would go. Maybe a third in the front. The thing said it can have 8 120mm fans.



Which CPU monitor do you use? On my computer and on my bro's computer we're using Core Temp.

 

[TwwIX]

Is the hard drive bay adjustable? If yes, move it up a bit. So, that it's not in the way of the front fan.

Use the front and side fans for intake. Rear and top for exhaust. That's how it's usually recommended for optimal airflow. I have it set up like that myself.

How many fans did you get with the case? Sometimes manufactures are too cheap and won't supply you with more than one or two. You can always get some aftermarket case fans. There's plenty of good, cheap case fans out there.

 

[Raziaar]

Is the hard drive bay adjustable? If yes, move it up a bit. So, that it's not in the way of the front fan.

Use the front and side fans for intake. Rear and top for exhaust. That's how it's usually recommended for optimal airflow. I have it set up like that myself.

How many fans did you get with the case? Sometimes manufactures are too cheap and won't supply with than one or two. You can always get some aftermarket case fans. There's plenty of good, cheap case fans out there.

The fan is actually connected to the front of the hard drive bay.

Just two fans with the case right now. The rear fan, and the front fan which is on the hard drive bay.

 

[VirusType2]

Well, it's all up to you. Going overboard with fans shouldn't be necessary, although, since there are holes there, they might be a good idea to use them. Because having holes there with no fan may affect the flow of air negatively. Of course, it's possible to cover the extras with a simple fabrication.

With my Antec900, I have quite a bit of fans and moving air. I run all my fans on the lowest setting and it's louder than I'd like it. I don't have any issues with heat.

Obviously, you want to keep your components cool. There is some debate as to whether it is desirable to keep HDDs cool, but I personally would highly recommend it, especially if you are running torrents or something where they are being worked for long periods of time.

The CPU has a fan that sheds all of the excess heat from it, but then you want it to GTFO of the case. If the CPU was trapped in an airtight box, the fan would do nothing. Fans don't actually cool the air whatsoever, they simply displace it.

I guess I'd set it up to use all the fan slots. (Buy more fans) The top and rear should be exhaust, and the front should be intake, in my opinion. EDIT: A side fan, pointing towards the CPU and/or Video card should be intake, blowing onto them.

 

[Setä Hemuli]

Try using a program called prime95, it can be downloaded easily using google. You can start testing by selecting options - torture test. This immediately brings up each core to a 100% usage, atleast with my core i5, and it's normal that the temperature of the cpu rises to about 70°C, if it get's hotter than that you might have a cooling problem.

About cooling itself - I have 5 large fans, one in the front and two on the side as intake, and two in the roof as exhaust. It's enough to keep an overclocked HD5770 at 69°C max when using 3dmark06 benchmark program, and the overall temperatures at around 30°C. So, investing in a couple more system fans can do wonders for you.

 

[Asus]

If your case has a 120mm front and rear fan then you are balanced. With the PSU fan pointing down it is not a factor as any air will leave the back of the PSU and not go into the case. If you decide to flip it then it is considered an exhaust fan.

IMO a lot of fan spots are bad (empty or with fans) on current desktop cases because of the locations. There is a big chance the case will suck in air from the top or side instead of from the front if the air flow isn't controlled. And intakes that are not up front could be getting recycled air pulled from the back of the case (hot).

I usually prefer to populate front fans instead of side fans because it keeps the air flow within the case a bit more steady. Air change in direction/speed means dropped dust. And the case is longer than it is wide. Although I would probably do a side fan for a multi-GPU setup though since one of the GPU's heatsinks is sandwiched and can't cool well.

I actually put duct tape over my unused fan spots or block it somehow when I do 2 front/2 rear and my top spot is empty. Then the air coming into the case is cool from the front and going through my air filters. If you populate all spots with fans then you increase your noise and you still may not eliminate the hot air coming back in problem.

It's just a balancing game. You just have to pick where you need the extra cooling if you by more fans.
i = intake / e=exhaust
1 front (i), 1 side (i) , 1 rear (e), 1 top (e), psu pointing down....would be good for multi-GPUs
2 front (i), 1 rear (e), PSU up (e)...would be good for HDDs and GPU
2 front (i), 1 rear (e), 1 top (e), psu down....good for CPU, HDDs and better than other for GPUs

I would probably pick the last option from a temp perspective (not taking into consideration possible dust build up in PSU facing down).

 

[VirusType2]

I agree with Asus. Cover one of the top holes and the side fan hole (the intake on the video card is positioned near the front of your case anyway); put one fan at the top, one more in the front and be done with it.

I think one issue you may deal with is that the air [from the two front fans] is mostly sucked up by the monster power supply and shot out the back. You need to make sure you get cool air to the CPU. I'd guess the top fan will help with that.

They actually list the volume of the fans at newegg.

One I bought there came with a rear mountable variable speed control. Pay attention to that, because if they don't have a speed control, you'll need to buy a speed controller or it will be full blast and extremely loud (unless its a fan that your BIOS can control)

I was very choosy about the volume of the fan. It's inaudible (from about 2 feet) at its lowest setting, and it still moves a good deal of air. It's more effective and quieter than then fans that come with cases.

 

[Asus]

Yeah, my fans are on low or medium. If they didn't have a control on them they would be going 100% and a little loud. They are just the Antec tri fans. Not quite as quiet as some fans but simple with the low-med-hi switch on each fan (plus they came with my case).

 

[Raziaar]

Dealing with BSOD yet again.

I haven't had really much issue at all with Windows 7... no even a single BSOD. Now my brother is having all sorts of issues. <sigh>

0x00000050 Errors.

And his Avast stopped working. How utterly frustrating. Going to reinstall antivirus and try to get down to the root cause of this stupid ass problem.


By the way I haven't ignored all your posts about the fans. Once we get ready to purchase some we'll soak all that in and make a best judgement call.

 

[VirusType2]

In my opinion, it's a hardware issue, but could be a driver for that hardware as well. I suspect your mouse.

Maybe it could be RAM as well. Try a memory check. Also read the reviews of that RAM you got and see if anyone else had a problem with the RAM stability at advertised speeds.

It didn't give you an .EXE name? Maybe that means it was not a driver, but the actual hardware.

Like, for me, when I got the BSOD stop, it gave me the name of the driver. In my case, it was the driver for my USB wireless adapter. I tried a few different things, but the BSOD persisted. So I ended up getting a new wireless adapter and haven't had any problems since.

 

[Asus]

Your PSU has a single +12v rail rather than multiple so what cable is plugged where doesn't matter. (do you have 2 power in the GPU?)

Are all the drivers updated?
Chipset, GPU etc

TBH I would uninstall software that you put on (like anti-malware apps etc) for tracing these errors.

Both fans blowing the correct direction?